On the roads of Baranja

After you reach the settlement of Lug through the winding roads of Baranja, you will notice a local church in the distance, and across from it, on the main road, is Kuća Biljkinog oca. There are also signposts that will make it easier for you to find it. The classic Pannonian Swabian-type house with a long porch will also stand out with its ochre facade and dark green windows. This centuries-old beauty will be happy to give you a warm welcome and accommodate you in its chambers, while the abundance of plants will give you the opportunity to connect with nature.

The settlement of Lug is mostly known for its production of ground paprika, both hot and sweet. The first weekend in October is already traditionally booked for Paprikafest, an event which, in addition to the sale of ground paprika, also includes a fair where locals sell other products, as well as a rich gastronomic offer with an imperative music programme. Lug is located at the crossroads between the roads to Kopački rit and those leading to wine roads, and even the most distant locations in Baranja are within half an hour’s drive.

A less-known story is that the Jesuits built a church in Lug in honour of the Blessed Virgin Mary with the desire for it to become a Marian shrine. In 1697, they acquired a statue of Virgin Mary, which they brought to Lug in a ceremonial procession from Osijek on the day of the Assumption of Mary. Supporters of Rákóczy’s rebellion against the Habsburg rule − the Calvinists − occupied and settled several settlements in Baranja, including Lug, where they appropriated the Catholic church and converted it into their Calvinist place of worship. To save the statue of Virgin Mary, the Jesuits take it to Aljmaš. Since then, pilgrims have been going to Aljmaš on Our Lady’s holidays, and 1704 is marked as the first year of the Aljmaš sanctuary.

Kopački rit is a wetland area located north of the confluence of the Drava and the Danube rivers, thus creating ideal conditions for the life of many plant and animal species. It is also the oldest nature park in Croatia, included in the list of Important Bird Areas (IBA). In addition to a large number of fish species and already mentioned birds, there is also a large number of wild game, so driving on the roads along Kopački rit often turns into a safari. It is definitely recommended to visit the education and presentation centre Tikveš in order to further learn about Kopački rit, but also to enjoy the castle complex itself, as Tito and his distinguished guests once did. Kopački rit is interesting in every season, from mystical winter through playful spring and summer to the rich colours of autumn.

Bilje is the largest settlement and the seat of the municipality of the same name, divided from Osijek only by a road or a bicycle and pedestrian path, depending on what you prefer. The most significant building is the castle of Eugene of Savoy from the beginning of the 18th century, which is currently neglected and desolate, but its impressive facade still attracts sighs. An imminent renovation has been announced, which we are extremely looking forward to. Bilje also hides a natural phenomenon, Bilje steppe-like grassland, with its exceptional biodiversity, which you should definitely visit in spring or summer. That area is situated in the local cemetery, it is protected and picking plants is strictly prohibited. Of the events, we should certainly mention the International Ethno Meetings that take place in mid-June.

Ethno-village Karanac will take you back to some old times, where you can visit households that have preserved the atmosphere of those old times, decorated in an antique style. Visitors to Kuća Biljkinog oca and fans of antiques can also visit similar households that offer additional content. One of the most famous locations is certainly “Ulica zaboravljenog vremena” (the Street of Bygone Times), where you can see somewhat forgotten crafts such as the production of clogs, wooden baskets and wooden barrels, as well as a blacksmith shop, a barber shop and a mill. The street also has a viewpoint at a height of about nine meters that offers a wonderful view of the rest of the village. You certainly won’t leave hungry or thirsty. Ethno-fairs take place several times a year, and “Čvarakfest” (festival of pork cracklings) is one of the most famous ones in winter.

Baranja is a famous wine region that will not leave your palate indifferent. The settlement of Zmajevac is a village with the greatest number of small wineries where you can taste many varieties of wine and pair them with food. The hosts will be happy to take you to “gatori”, or wine cellars dug into a hill. It is also known for its events throughout the year, among which the most important ones are the Wine Marathon and Vinatlon. Probably the most photographed location in Baranja is the Belje wine viewpoint, so we believe that you will also want to stop by at least briefly.

In the very north of Baranja is Batina, a picturesque settlement that has the closest relationship with the Danube. The view from the Monument to the Battle of Batina is particularly impressive, and you should not miss it if you find yourself in this area. There is also an interesting walking route through “surduci”, roads cut into the hills that take you through “Baranjska planina” (Baranja Hill), and maybe even lead you to the settlement of Draž, which has become increasingly popular in the last few years because of its beach on the backwater of the Danube, ideal for families with children. During the carnival, Draž becomes one of the places “possessed” by terrible “Buše” and a fire is lit to drive away winter.

Since you are already in the north of Baranja, be sure to head to Topolje, where you can visit the unusual church of St. Peter and Paul, special in that it does not have a tower, since it collapsed three times during construction, which is why numerous legends arose. Lovers of tradition should definitely visit the house “Šokačka kuća”, which presents a depiction of rural life.

Be sure to also visit the only town in Baranja – Beli Manastir, where “Kuća Baranjskog kulena” (House of Baranja kulen) and the Ethnology Centre of Baranja’s Heritage with a rich collection are located.

 

Kuća Biljkinog Oca

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